So. To cycle, or not to cycle along the Black Sea coast? Probably one of the most debated questions among touring cyclists as it comes to pedaling Turkey.
First off there are countless stories to be found about the physically demanding, but visually stunning riding along the coast. A beautiful, calm coastal road winding its way through the dramatic and lush green nature – with a constant panorama view of the powerful Black Sea. People have done it, loved it, and now pretty much won’t shut up about it.
And then there are the naysayers. The ones claiming that going for the coast basically means choosing not to experience ‘the real Turkey’. Which according to them is only to be found inland. These people pretty much describes the coast at a waste of time and calories, crowded with cyclists and local people so used to two-wheeled travellers that they would never look at you twice. Many of course without actually have cycled there themselves.
So. What to do?
I actually didn’t worry too much about making the right choice here. One look at the map and you realise that Turkey is big. I mean, really big. And I have time. Loads of it. So I kind of figured that well, I’m just not gonna make the choice. I’ll head up to check out this well debated coast, see what the fuzz is actually about, and then take it from there.
Are the climbs actually as steep as people make them sound?
Are the views as beautiful?
Is it really some kind of bicycle tourer’s highway up there?
And how bored will the locals be when another fully loaded bike is rolling in to disturb the peace in their village?
I reached the coast with the mindset that this probably wouldn’t be all that much to cheer for, but at least I wanted to have seen it with my own eyes before deciding not to ride there.
‘Probably I’ll get off in a day or two’, I thought to myself.
But I didn’t. In the end I hung around the coast close to a full week before I felt like I was ready to leave.
After this week I can state a few things for sure:
1) Yes. The cycling is hard work. The hills are stupidly steep, and simply. won’t. end.
2) Yes. It’s absolutely gorgeous, even enough to make the climbing worth it.
3) And. I’ve developed a completely irrational fear of cows
I mean – they’re beautiful and all…
But I just have this feeling that they want to sit on me?
C’mon. Right in the middle? Is it too much to ask to share the road?
And what about the crowds of lycra dressed Europeans fighting for the attention of the bored locals? Well. During my week I saw… zero, other cyclists. And even if I wasn’t looked at as a complete alien when I pedaled into the villages, I still recieved a never ending flow of curiosity, smiles and hospitality from people along the way.
Company, çay, food and places to stay was part of the daily routine and I was always taken care of in the best of ways. In short, it was a pretty awesome ride.
How to meet people in Turkey? Sometimes I feel like a better question would be how not to. All it takes is really to get off the bike. You don’t have to look for people. They will find you.
A random stop for lunch…
…would usually get me one, or four new friends happy to let me practice my Turkish with them
And speaking of Turkish. It’s obvious who are the best teachers around, right? Kids. Happy, curious and unembarassed they will let you take your time, and simply don’t care if you fail completely in making yourself understood. They will laugh and play with you anyways.
Securing the next generation of globetrotting bike chicks – Check!
In short, I loved the Black Sea coastline. One thing that I think is true though, is that it’s kind of monotonous. The views are stunning – but in the same way as yesterday. And the day before. It’s sad, but natural, that you don’t really know to appreciate the beauty after some time. And when that moment comes, it’s time to get off.
For me it took just less than a week.
That’s all for now. But keep your eyes open, more on Turkey is coming up shortly.
Fredrika