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So far Fredrika Ek has created 140 entries.

Finding Akbar

My reasons for doing this trip are many. In fact explaining them will definitely be a post all in itself one day. This post is just a short one to let you know that as of recently I have a new one. One including an Iranian man called Akbar and a very special 1 Euro coin.

This thing started on my first night in Croatia. After having waited a bit too long in the evening before thinking about where I’d spend the night I found myself checking in at a campsite for the first time since I started this trip. At first this felt like the night was a total faliure, as it seemingly wouldn’t include either beautiful nature nor meeting new people. And sure – staying in a random touristic Croatian campsite sure wasn’t a very scenic experience, but boy was I wrong about the people part!

Luckily another cyclist – Jacques from France – had ended up in the very same situation as me. Being stuck in a way too touristic place to find a decent campspot after dawn that is. Otherwise his situation is really the opposite to mine. Sure, he is also doing a round the world-tour. The big difference though is that he is on his way home. After more than five years on the road he is now doing his last month of pedaling, going back to ‘surprise his mother’ in northern France.

Apart from being a warm, generous and friendly dude with a heavy French accent, having a conversation with Jacques was like going to the movies. The stories he had from his years of adventure were just too many and too good to only have one night to pick his brain. I was just so happy to have ‘failed’ and ended up with my tent next to his that evening.


Jacques…


…showing off…


…the ‘one million degree-hat’ he got from a Turkmen shepherd last winter

However. This is where the coin comes in. When Jacques found out I am headed towards Iran, he quickly set me off on a mission to deliver a note and a coin of luck to his friend Akbar.

Ehrm. OK? Iran is huge. Like really, really huge.

I think Jacques could see my confusion as he handed over the note and coin he wanted me to pass on to his mystery friend in a few months.

“Don’t worry! You don’t have to look for him. He’ll find you.”

And then it all became obvious. I had heard of Akbar before. In fact, he is somewhat of a legend in the bicycle touring community, as he is going out of his way to meet, welcome and take a photo with every single cyclist passing through his town Marand in Iran. With scouting truck drivers calling to let him know everytime cyclists are approaching, he always heads out to meet and welcome them to Iran with open arms.

Apparently Jacques is cyclist number 482 in Akbar’s photo collection. I think that number in itself proofs that my chances of meeting him should be pretty good. And man, I really really want to have my own number in Akbar’s albums :)

So. Delivering a coin of luck Akbar in Iran. Mission impossible?

We’ll just have to wait and see – but I’m definitely keeping my hopes up.

By |April 21st, 2015|Europe, Travel Logs|

Detouring Slovenia

Ever since the beginning, Slovenia is a country I’ve really been looking forward to cycling through. Before setting off I’d heard so many great things from people who’d been rolling though the country before me, and my expectiations were dangerously high as I crossed in from Austria a week or so ago. Luckily though, I was gonna be far from disappointed.

My initial plan was to pass through eastern Slovenia in a day or two, and then go straight for Croatia. But as I was approaching the border on my second day I just didn’t feel ready to leave so quickly. And after something like a 30 second deliberation (going like: Yes! No.. Yeah? Wtf? Ehh. OK, screw it. Haha, let’s go!) with myself I simply decided to say ‘So long, Zagreb!’ and take a right. A right that would give me three more days in Slovenia, and a feeling of freedom I can’t find the words to describe.

Others have talked about Slovenia, with it’s vineyards and lush rolling landscapes, as a visually gorgeous country. And I couldn’t agree more. For me though, what made me completely fall in love with Slovenia was – once again – the people I met there. Night after night I found myself in the homes of generous and curious people I bumped into along the way, and I couldn’t have asked for a better time. I was so happy to find out that Slovenians actually speak English really well, and to finish off each day of cycling with some proper conversation was great.

What I really love with these homestays is that you never, never know what to expect as you agree to step inside a stranger’s house to share the evening together. A day in the saddle is always filled with so much impressions and unexpected events, but for me the feeling of adventure is definitely peaking just as I cross that threshold and the only thing I know is that I don’t know what’s coming.

Throwing myself in and out of the so vastly different lives people are living really is extremely rewarding. Spending one night with 30-year-old Borut in central Maribor, having pizza and cracking jokes about communism – and the very next one in the middle of nowhere, listening to an older couple telling their stories from ‘the beautiful days of former Yugoslavia’ with a nostalgic glimmer in their eyes. There’s simply nothing that can beat that.

So, what about the cycling? Well. It’s been great. The sun is smiling at me and instead of choosig how many layers of clothing to use I’ve been deciding on what sunscreen to use. Awesome. And yeah – the vineyards and green landscapes people were talking about were just as beautiful as I’d been told. Slovenia is definitely hilly, but who cares about some climbing when you’re always rewarded with a postcard view and then a nice downhill? Every day everything seemed to become a little greener, and I wish I could come back to see it all again in its prime in a few months.

Right now though, I’ve continued into Croatia and the Adriatic sea. But as usual, you’ll hear about my time here in the next blog post. (Teaser: It’s pretty damn nice.)

Have a great weekend!

Fredrika

By |April 18th, 2015|Europe, Travel Logs|

Back to where it all started

Out of the 8 European countries I passed on my last tour, Austria with it’s amazing landscapes, was my favorite one. So going into it, I knew that I was in for some hard – but always very rewarding – work. I had a physically tough first day with lots of steep and long climbs, and as the sun still was nowhere to be seen, it all initally seemed like a lot more work than reward.

Luckily though, my very first night on Austrian ground ended with a great homestay with a family of farmers who adopted me for the evening. While the parents and kids were so happy and curious to take me in, the grandmother Marie who also lived in the house wasn’t very impressed with the new guest. She simply coulnd’t understand why on Earth someone would travel from Sweden to their tiny, tiny town – ON A BICYCLE?!? And what’s up with the weird German the girl is trying to speak? Something must be up. For sure. I wish I’d have the guts to snap a picture of Marie before she went to bed, still shaking her head.


Magdalena showing off her new favorites on the farm

The next days things really changed and I suddenly got a whole lot of reward for very little work. The sun was back, smiling at me for the first time in what seemed like weeks. And I had a full hour of just rolling downhill, watching the great scenery as I made my way down to the Danube. Reaching the river was such a cool feeling. I was back. Cycling along the Danube is where I first fell in love with bicycle touring, and rolling in my own wheel tracks for the first and last time was a truly unique experience. What if I’d known then, that I’d be back less than two years later? Like this? Absurd.

The rest of my way through Austria has been just what I hoped for. I’ve done a few passes above 1 200 m and the views have just been breathtaking. Last time I was here it was in early fall, so it has been reall nice to also get to experience the spring as the Alps still are totally snowcovered. While I’m doing my best to stay in the moment and take in the majestic mountains and amazing views, I’ve again and again been catching myself with thinking about the mountains in Central Asia and what’s still ahead of me. There really is nothing I’m as excited about as climbing those hills in and around Kirgizistan. But that’ll be a whole other chapter…


The Alps really make you work for it…


…but the rewards are always worth it

Today is my last day in Austria and I’m spending it in Graz. I’ve rolled down from the mountains and it’s so warm down here! The last few weeks I’ve really been dreaming about warm weather and now it’s finally here. I couldn’t be happier and today I’m walking around in shorts and t-shirt for the very first time.

Tomorrow I’m crossing into Slovenia, heading straight for Maribor :)

By |April 11th, 2015|Europe, Travel Logs|

Czech Republic

Heading into Czech Republic I didn’t really have any expectations. This was a country that I before this trip barely knew anything about, apart from the name of a few beer brands. As I crossed in from Germany, the weather was still a big focus for me. The cold and rain simply didn’t want to give in and I spent a lot of effort making sure not to get too cold. Or too warm for that matter, as breaking a sweat is a sure recepie for freezing later down the road.

Right after the border I got to do my first actual climbing of the trip. As always when your body gets to take on something it’s not used to, this was hard work. However, I was too busy watching the snow increase with the altitude to really take notice of my legs begging for rest. The first two days I spent far away from any real towns or cities, and I had a couple of really nice days and nights before reaching the capital.

I’ve been wondering a lot on when this would happen, and just as I rolled into Prague it finally did. I found my first other bicycle tourers! My time in Prague couldn’t have started in a better way than to bump into Ellie and Tom who, like me, had been cycling from Dresden a few days earlier. To celebrate our arrival and meeting we rode together into the old town, fetched some maps and then sat down to share a bunch of stories from the road and a few Czech beers. This was really a great experience, and a first taste of what awaits as I’m convinced that these meetings will beome more and more frequent in the near future.

I stayed in Prague for a couple of days, in the company of yet another cyclist – Jirka, who I’d gotten in touch with through the online cycling community Warmshowers. He really made sure to give me a great time and acted as my guide, roomie, chef and overall partner in crime during my stay. And I think it’s worth stating again, there really is nothing better than experiencing a city together with a local who actually knows about all the hidden gems that can’t be found in the guidebooks.

Overall, I had a great time with big contrasts in Czech Republic. After leaving Prague I once again found myself out and about on small backroads with barely no people around. Usually I really appreciate these days but a bit to much snow made me long back to Jirka’s warm apartment as I was pushing forward towards the Austrian border.

How I stay motivated when things aren’t ideal? Well, there are many ways. But one that I found particularly effective on my way through Czech Rep. was cramming a pannier full with chocolate! This also seem to work very well when things actually are ideal…

Ok, that’s all for now.

So, as Jirka would say – Na shledanou!

By |April 11th, 2015|Europe, Travel Logs|

Big storms – Bigger hearts

The last week has been intense to say the least. First off I had a couple of really great days in Berlin. Without a care in the world I was really enjoying myself with the great company of new made friends. One thing I absolutely love about travelling like this is that experiencing a capital or city not only means going to see the main sights and a couple of museums like the typical tourist. To also get to dive straight into peoples’ lives, and tag along with some proper locals – a great group of Berlin students in this case – is nothing but magical. Had I known what I soon was in for, I probably would have enjoyed these effortless ‘roof over my head days’ even more than I did.

When I left Berlin on Tuesday I did so without having checked the weather forecast. And little did I know that the heaviest storm Germany had seen in years would come crashing in just a couple of hours later. Hurricane Niklas came without mercy and was really an extreme experience. I started the day with the mindset of just doing some easy cycling to recover from partying in Berlin, and was very surprised when I suddenly found myself in the middle of a roaring storm. Later I learned that the winds had been measured up to 200 km/h which is totally insane. Over and over again I had to stop completely, just trying to stand still and keep my balance as the wind and rain was whipping my body from side to side.

That my plan of wild camping in the forest was totally out of question became pretty clear as the trees were falling like jackstraws around me. With nothing but these tiny villages surrounded by deep forests around me it was far from obvious how the night would end. But as always, when things get tough, they turn out great in the most unexpected ways.

In the village Kemlitz, consisting of 64 people, I found myself rescued by this amzing family who just happened to have a spare room for the night. In 10 minutes I went from being soaked, totally exhaused and without a clue on how things would turn out, to standing in the shower, with my very own room and lovely people waiting with food and great conversation. Absolutely dreamlike.

The actual hurricane was over in one night, but the stormy weather was constant for the next couple of days. Hail storms, headwinds and snow made the journey to Dresden a lot more demanding than it was supposed to be. But in so many ways I’m grateful for the horrible conditions I’ve had in Germany. Without them I would have missed out on a bunch of people I now feel so lucky to have met.

In Dresden I once again was welcomed into a warm and loving home of some wonderfully generous people. Without thinking twice they not only helped me wash my clothes and fix my gear, but they also let me be part of their Eastern family celebrations. Getting to take join in on their traditions and find myself crawling around on the floor, searching for sweets the Eastern Bunny had left me was the perfect ending to a pretty rough week.

The generousity and kindness people show me is so moving, and it’s really these meetings that make the strongest memories. Sure, trying to ride my bike through a hurricane is something I’ll definitely remember. But having 5-year-old Telli teach me German words before bedtime, and then share a bottle of wine with his parents is simply something I’ll never forget. Same goes for discovering Dresden with my German ‘stand in parents’ while waiting out the last day of the storm.

Right now I’ve already spent a few days in Czech Republic, and a lot has happened since I left Germany. But that you won’t be hearing about until the next blog post, because I’ll probably be fast asleep in like 5 minutes…

Goodnight from Prague :) Take care!

By |April 6th, 2015|Europe, Travel Logs|

German forests & rain

Checking in from my third country – Germany! It’s now four days since I took the ferry from Gedser to Rostock. I’ve now made it to Berlin and gotten hold of some decent Wi-Fi for the first time since entering Germany. So far all (…well, both) my border crossings have been made by boat, and I’m still waiting to actually cross into a new country by my own force. This is something I’m really looking forward to as no matter how dorky it may seem, I just LOVE reaching those border signs, and take the mandatory ‘new country photo’ before actually passing them. From now on though, it’s just gonna be the bike and I until the very end of Eurasia. A distance I really can’t grasp at the moment.


Not only people are curious about what’s in my panniers


My bicycle safely buckled up for its second ferry ride

Since I left Denmark for Germany I’ve sometimes gotten the feeling that I’m back in northern Sweden, just at a different time of the year than I left it a few weeks ago. The green open fields has disappeared and been replaced by deep forrests with these calm and almost empty roads lingering their way between the trees. But even though so much here reminds me of home it’s still obvious that this is far from it. If the birds and animals, or flowers and plants wouldn’t be clear enough, not being able to properly communicate with the people around me definitely is.


The open green landscapes in Denmark…


…Surely didn’t come with me to Germany

I’m rolling through eastern Germany, the former DDR, which means that when I’m not speaking to very young people, my English is pretty much useless here. German or Russian are the options if you wanna make yourself understood here, and as I’m not speaking any of them, I’m mostly using another favorite of mine: body language! Even though it often takes some time, it still amazes me how easy it can be to communicate without really sharing a language.

During first couple of weeks on the road I was absolutely blown away by my luck with the weather. This week things have changed pretty drastically and I’ve been struggling with lots of rain and headwinds since I came to Germany. My first flat tire, issues with getting hold of Euros and a hurt hand have all come as small bumps in the road here. In some weird way though, I’ve actually been enjoying having to take on these small challanges.

I’ve told many people that the beginning of my trip has been ‘too easy!’, and I’ve been looking forward start overcoming the challanges you’re faced with while on the road. Getting food without cash or a working credit card, or keeping warm and dry when the sky is trying it’s best to make you drown being two obvious examples. They hardships on the road are not in any way worse that the ones you face at home – just very, very different. And there are few things I love more than watching my focus turn towards the very basics; eating enough, sleeping safely and keeping dry & warm while constantly moving forward at a steady pace.


This in tent German ‘body language dinner’ is a whole story in itself…

Even though the limiting language barriers, I’ve had great times with some really nice people on my way though Germany. Yesterday I made it to Berlin and am now enjoying a day off the saddle with new friends. I never thought keeping this blog would lead to so many people reaching out to help me out along the way. This time it’s Lydia from Germany who’s made sure to get me a place and stuff to do while I’m here. My biggest thank you to everyone who’s going out of their way to make this adventure what it is!

You’re all just amazing :)

By |March 30th, 2015|Europe, Travel Logs|

Denmark & Nicolai

I never know how to begin these posts, as so much always has happened since the last one. Time seems to move slower than ever, and each day on the road consist of like a week’s worth of experiences at home.

Taking the ferry to Denmark was really a highlight so far on the trip. The feelings I had right before, and during the short 20 minute ride reminded me a lot of those I had during Day 1 back home in Sundsvall. Total excitement in combination with some kind of nervousness I’m still having difficulty defining. Crossing the border into Denmark was my first real milestone and it was such a special moment to stand in the back of the deck, watching the Swedish mainland drift further and further away.

I loved getting off in Helsingør! Even though Sweden was still just a few kilometers away, seemingly small changes made it obvious that I was no longer at home. Funny enough, just 5 minutes into Denmark, I reached the 1000 km mark and got another reason to celebrate. Couldn’t have had better timing!

I cycled into Copenhagen where I spent an extra day just being a regular tourist. Going to see a capital is always nice, but the city itself was not what made these two days absolutely magical. That was all thanks to a certain Nicolai Bangsgaard.

This amazingly inspiring guy is a living proof that this crazy quest I’ve started actually isn’t impossible. Between 2006 and 2010 Nicolai rode his bike over 60 000 km around the world, rolling through more than 50 countries before finishing back home in Denmark.

Ever since I first heard of the concept of bike touring Nicolai has been a huge inspiration to me, and the last couple of years I’ve spent countless hours on his website, reading the logs he kept on his journey. So I guess most of you can imagine my excitement when he offered me to come crash at his place Copenhagen?

Spending time with Nicolai has made me more motivated than ever. I’ve gotten to listen to his stories from the road, take his advice and having him assuring me that Yeah, of course I’ll be fine. He more than anyone knows what it is that I’m getting myself into, and him believing that I absolutely can do this means the world. I couldn’t be happier.

I really had a hard time leaving this morning, as I easily could have spent at least a week just absorbing his experience and great energy. But we’ll just have to wait and see when our paths cross next time, right now I’m very confident that sooner or later they will.

After leaving Copenhagen I had a great day in the saddle today. With Denmark being as flat as it is, combined with a crazy tailwind I was just flying south. Clouds made the day pretty grey, but I still really enjoyed being outside. Everything is now so green and even though this was a day of “bad weather” it was way warmer than the sunny days I had a couple of weeks back in Sweden.

Tonight I’m falling asleep just a couple of hours from Gedser where tomorrow I’ll take the ferry to Rostock, Germany. Really looking forward to take on country number three, and start making my way towards Berlin.

Goodnight!

By |March 26th, 2015|Europe, Travel Logs|

Leaving home

Sweden – CHECK.

This feels totally surreal: I’ve reached my Swedish finish line! Yesterday, exactly two weeks after I started pedaling from Sundsvall, I made it to Helsingborg and the end of my journey through Sweden. These weeks have been absolutely amazing on so many levels and I’m so so happy and grateful for everything I’ve gotten to experiene so far.

To see the path I’ve been taking, you can always check out the bottom of this page: The Route

Since leaving Skinnskatteberg and my grandmother’s, I’ve had 7 straight days of cycling. A combination of amazing weather, a well rested body and a great urge to get out of Sweden made long days in the saddle more enjoyable than most would probably imagine.

I’ve loved watching the landscape change as I’ve steadily been moving south. The snow is now long gone and instead of passing snowmobiles and deep forrests I’m now rolling past green open fields and spring flowers growing like weeds in dithes and peoples’ gardens. I’m really getting to experience a spring on steroides and thinking about how much things will have changed in two more weeks makes me so excited. Probably not that many days left before I’ll be riding in a T-shirt for the first time.

Apart from homestays with wonderfully helpful and generous people I’ve met along the way, I’ve had some amazing camping since last time I checked in with you. Thanks to the Everyman’s right, Sweden offers some of the easiest and fuzz free camping there is, and I’ve had a few absolutely dreamlike mornings watching the sunrise or sunset straight from my sleeping bag. The nights are still a bit cold, but with a few extra layers of clothing I’ve been enjoying myself to the fullest.

So far I’ve really been spoiled with problem free days. Everything has been going my way, and even when the rain and rough wheather finally hit, it did so in my favor. Yesterday was supposed to be a bit though with 80 km, including climbing Hallandsåsen, in headwind and heavy rain. Luckliy though the winds changed to give me a 8 m/s wind in the back, allowing me to pedal to Helsingborg in record speed. Here I’m spending my time at the house of my relatives, taking a day off to hang out, rest and just take my last breaths of Swedish air before leaving home.

Tomorrow I’ll be taking the ferry to Denmark, and in a way be starting this adventure for real. As always, I’m leaving my route open for change, but Denmark, Germany, Czech Republic and Austria are sure to get a visit from my rolling circus in the next couple of weeks.

I’m smiling just thinking about what awaits.

Cheers!

By |March 22nd, 2015|Europe, Travel Logs|

First week!

OK!

I don’t really know how to write this post, but here it goes. First off – I’m on the road! And have been for about a week now. A long, intense and absolutely wonderful week. One I for sure will remember forever.

It all started last Sunday when it finally was time for me to kiss my friends and family goodbye. Lots of people came to show their support and I couldn’t have wished for a better way to begin this journey. I don’t think I’ve ever felt such mixed emotions before and tears of both joy and sadness all came at the same time.

After what seemed like just a few minutes (it was actually a couple of hours) of “Goodbye:s” and “I’ll miss you:s”, it was really time. And I’m not even going to attempt to explain the emotions flooding though my body as I took my first wobbly pedal strokes and felt the wheels rolling beneath me.

The sense of freedom that rushed through me as I rolled out of Sundsvall was simply out of this world, and the feeling has been sticking with me for this entire week. I still feel overwhelmed with happiness, relief, pride and excitement about the fact that The Bike Ramble finally has become reality. It’s no longer something I’m just thinking or talking about doing. It’s here!



As if everything wasn’t already perfect I’ve had the best weather anyone could wish for this week. Apart from stuggling with some harsh winds on one day I’ve had perfect conditions. The sun has been shining constantly and daytime I’ve often been able to ride without even wearing a jacket. Not what one would expect from northern Sweden this time a year! I’ve mainly been sticking to these beautiful roads, calmy winding though the Swedish forests. With very few cars around to break the illusion, it’s really been like riding though a real life fairytale. It’s really a warm feeling to be exploring and experiencing my home country like this.





So far I’ve only spent one night in my tent, as I’ve been lucky enough to be invited into the homes of a bunch of friendly people along the road. Even though I love to pitch the tent and crawl into my sleeping bag at night, I’m not going to turn an offer of dinner, nice company and a warm bed just yet.

On Thursday, 5 days into the trip, I reached my first pit stop Skinnskatteberg. A tiny town where my lovely grandmother has been waiting for me since I started pedaling from Sundsvall. Even if it might seem like a small one, it feels awesome to have completed this first leg of the trip. And it’s been so nice to take a couple of days off the saddle to rest my body (and butt), and just stuff myself with delicious food.

Isn’t she the cutest?

On Sunday I’ll keep moving south. It’s already far less snowy here than back in Sundsvall and I’m really excited to keep chasing warmer weather. Today my bike got some minor touch ups at the local bike shop and I know that she, like me, is excited to get going again.

Talk to you later!

By |March 14th, 2015|Europe, Travel Logs|

Can’t sleep…

I should be sleeping right now. But I just can’t. I mean, how could I?

I’ve been thinking about this moment every day for what seems like forever. And now it’s actually here. One last night in my own bed and a breakfast at home is what’s left before I leave my old life behind and jump head first into the biggest adventure of my life.

The last day at home turned out to be one of the best ones I’ve ever had. I thought I knew it before, but today has proven that I really do have the best friends one could wish for.

This morning I got waken by my best friends, who’d all come home to Sundsvall to be here my last weekend at home. I was so happy to see them that I didn’t really reflect on the fact that the breakfast in bed they brought me was the typical Swedish Christmas rice pudding.

microyear

Soon though it became clear what was going on. To make up for the upcoming time we won’t be able to have together they’d arranged an entire micro-year compressed into one long, amazing day. Christmas, Easter, and the typical Swedish mid summer celebration were all covered by lunch time, and the day was already to good to be true.

microyear

microyear

During the afternoon the year continued with the imaginary celebration of my birthday (October) at the spa. About this time the love and gratitude I feel towards these people led into on and off crying and laughing in a way I wasn’t really ready for.

microyear

microyear

Our one day year was finished off in style with a three course New Year’s dinner. I can’t really describe how nice it’s been to just let go off (almost) all thoughts of this project and have this last amazing day with people I care so much about. I guess that the only negative thing would be that this will make it even more difficult to leave them all tomorrow.

microyear

microyear

OK. It’s now 3.30 AM and I need to get some sleep.

Even with the mixed emotions I am so excited to see what tomorrow will bring. Just as today has been, tomorrow will be a day that I for sure will remember for the rest of my life, and I can’t wait to experience it.

I really feel like the luckiest girl in the world :)

Time for bed!

microyear

By |March 8th, 2015|Preparations|